Now playing: “Holy Matrimony” by Azekel
It’s that time of the year again…and I have to say, I’m impressed with the A/W 2016 offerings that have been presented at New York, London, Milan and Paris so far. Paris Fashion Week in particular excelled to no end, with pretty much every show having me swooning.
I’d thought I’d share with you my top picks from fashion month! Be prepared for a whole lot of PVC jackets, chiffon ruffles and gothic romanticism…
RODARTE: I love how the Mulleavy sisters have managed to create a distinctive aesthetic – their designs always a brilliant mish-mash collage of half a dozen fabrics and trimmings, finished off with a sprinkling of beaded embroidery, each Rodarte construct conveys a certain emotion of wild expression. Show me a runway outfit that’s Rodarte, without telling me, and I would be quick to identify it as Rodarte. For this collection, dark romanticism (AKA this autumn-winter trend down to a T) was constructed through patchwork with ruffle trimmings and handfuls of jagged fur, coming together almost like puzzle pieces coming together to show a bigger picture.
PREEN: This season, Preen had a particularly amorous tendency towards ruffles, with crushed velvet, smock dresses and floral patterns, reminiscent of the Art Nouveau romantics. Decorative embellishment was key in creating body, depth and texture, with velvet, sheer chiffon and sequins in pink, burgundy and black taking centre stage.
JIL SANDER: it was all about sense and sensibility for Jil Sander this A/W’16. As usual, the brand demonstrated its ruthless execution of sharp, clean tailoring, pairing this with a monochromatic palette with metallic accents in the form of mesh hems and foil-like slip dresses. In true Sander tradition, this collection was pure and simple. This is so me!!!!!
CHLOÉ: Chloé is known for being an old romantic at heart – and their A/W’16 was no different. It was as was expected for the French fashion house, which I like – no trying to be unpredictable, just sticking to what they do best – and there’s nothing wrong with that. This collection was in the style of classic Chloé 70s bohemia; full of soft chiffon frills and ruffles, gentle muted tones and neckties, as usual, it epitomised the coolness of the way French women dress.
CHRISTIAN DIOR: Oh Dior, you never let me down. Even post-Simons, you never fail to excel. The sunglasses, the dark glossy lip, the multitudes of jingle-jangle ear piercings, paired with slicked back side partings, make for a slick, neo-goth /neo-punk vibe that Neo from The Matrix would be proud of. A special shoutout to the Dior knits, and the bright orange number with leg-of-lamb sleeves that almost stuck out like a sore thumb in comparison to rest of the collection’s mood, yet at the same time made so much sense. A Dior paradox!
LANVIN: With a palette of golden peach, pale gold, seafoam green, mauve and cream, Lanvin’s A/W’16 offering was deliciously rich and lavish, the fur trimmings and stoles in some outfits reminding me of an upper class Victorian lady, modernised. Peplum hemlines and augmented shoulders hinted at retro, and the jacquard smoking tuxes and ruffled metallic blouses were reminiscent of the 80’s Dynasty-era. Drape was carefully taken into consideration, with silk pieces hanging from models like liquid. Whilst reviews were mixed, following the departure of Alber Elbaz, I think this collection, while perhaps not the strongest, shows potential for a rebirth.
(All images vogue.com)
Which were your favourite A/W2016 collections?
The Style Banks x