Now playing: “What Went Down” by Foals (they’re back, and as brilliant as ever)
Sorry it’s been a while, everybody! Been hard at work. And by that, I mean folding polo shirts for 8 hours a day.
In recent weeks, we have been observing fashion’s Resort 2016 collections. I hear you ask “What even is ‘Resort’?”, and the fact is, I’m not sure I can even tell you myself. Still, you can never have too many fashion shows, right?
The bird of paradise seemed be a common inspiration for a number of brands, with sharp flourishes of colour contrasted against neutral beiges, blush tones and white; elsewhere, vibrant floral motifs also made multiple appearances.
Structure was a paramount element across many collections, with designers such as Carol Lim and Humberto Leon at Opening Ceremony taking it to the next level, drawing parallels with the geometric technicality and clean, sharp lines of modern architecture.
The classic bomber jacket made a major comeback on the runway, often featuring a hint of oriental flavour – see Jonathan Saunders, Valentino and Stella McCartney. It won’t be long until they’re all over the high street.
Here are some of my favourite looks from a selection of Resort 2016 collections. Enjoy! (all images style.com)
Dior’s Resort 2016 show was unforgettable, hosting the event at Pierre Cardin’s Le Palais Bulles, a palace of terracotta bubbles; the endearing location almost mirrored the collection itself – fun, flirty, fresh and flamboyant.
Alexander Wang: I don’t think there was a look I didn’t like from Alexander Wang’s Resort 2016 collection. Chunky buckles and a no-nonsense attitude brings a sense of hard-edged androgyny. Fuck me up, Wang.
Valentino: Valentino’s signature style should be familiar by now – almost prim and saccharine silhouettes ornamented in a way that’s both heavy but delicate with embroidery and beadwork. The admirable thing about Valentino is its ability to constantly rework their signature – this time round, it was folksy, almost nomadic bohemian. Whilst this collection is arguably predictable and isn’t a particular favourite of mine, you have to admit that it won’t be long before you’ll see these designs trickle down into your nearest Zara store. Note the ornate bomber jacket.
Fendi: Graphic but somehow soft at the same time, perhaps the lightbulb motif on that fun graphic sweatshirt is a subtle nod of acknowledgement towards the fact that Karl Lagerfeld, the mastermind behind the scenes at Fendi for 50 years, is never out of ideas. A palette of ochre, khaki and tan, with the occasional pop of scarlet and powder blue, makes this collection a fresh and sophisticated offering.
Christopher Kane: many pieces from this collection are of a sickly-sweet, sugary affair (Kane chose to make the love heart his focus, embroidering and printing them into designs with aqua, blush and lilac lace and liquid silk), but in others he goes Queen-of-Hearts with bold red, black and sober navy, sharply counterpointing the saccharine.
Opening Ceremony: Heavy-duty, sharply-structured jackets, waist-cinching circular belts and bucket bags…oh my, this is innovation. A fitted t-shirt underneath a spaghetti-strap leather dress? YES. The colour palette is somewhat functional and uncompromising – black, white, red and moss green.Every curve, silhouette and edge is taken into very thorough and calculated consideration, and the result is flawlessly-executed design at its best.
Stella McCartney: McCartney has always had a certain optimism and energy in her designs, and this collection is no different. Even the more masculine, sharply-tailored designs in her collection held a sort of whimsical factor about them, no doubt due to the large individual flowers printed spaciously across garments.
What were your favourite Resort 2016 collections?