Now playing: “Queen” by Perfume Genius
Recently, I’ve gained an interest in menswear; I’ve surprised myself – I thought my obsession only lay in womenswear. The escape from femininity into pure androgyny is what excites me – I feel like I can learn something from menswear that I can’t from women’s fashion. The dedication towards a unique aesthetic seen in menswear collections is so compelling, innovative and refreshing. It’s just a shame I didn’t get to see any of the collections IRL :((
Calvin Klein AW15 stuck to dark, neutral tones; from black to charcoal and cool grey, models stalked the catwalk head to toe in one colour. The American fashion house kept in touch with their signature style, layering sharp, classic tailoring, but subtly injected an edge of subdued grey leopard print into their pieces. Meanwhile, last season’s collection featured aspects that reminisced the summer beach scene – shiny, coloured plastic and ice-cream-cone-beige with bold accents of scarlet, orange and canary yellow.
One of my favourite AW15 collections was Neil Barrett’s, which epitomised cool. Sticking to a stylish greeny / grey/ cream / black scheme, the roll necks, bomber jackets and long, textured coats were a subtle nod to youth culture, as the Neil Barrett army stormed down the catwalk in military boots and brogues.
Marni AW15’s jewel tones – royal blues and deep emeralds – were met by rich, earthy brown, charcoal grey, shaggy fur gilets, tweed suits and neat shapes. Marni’s streamlined, polished direction was brilliantly interfered by contrasting floral prints, vibrant collage furs and fuzzy textures – for some reason, it reminded me of Wes Anderson’s Fantastic Mr Fox.
I loved Craig Green’s boys, who were hybrids of utility-wear and hints of traditional Japanese dress -sashes and layering galore. Whilst his purist colour palette of bottle green, navy, black and white made his creations uniform, the introduction of red tools things to another level. Wide-leg parachute pants were paired with structured, long-sleeve jerseys and utility jackets. Models walked without shoes, giving a sense of vulnerability but at the same time a kind of quiet confidence.
One of the most memorable moments of AW15 menswear from the never-ending stream of catwalk recaps on Instagram came from Agi & Sam, with models’ faced embellished with clusters of Lego pieces, which reminded me of Maison Martin Margiela’s dramatic signature crystal face masks. The bright, primary colours used in their collection is so bauhaus, so cool.
The verdict? Whilst it’s easy to obsess over the world of women’s fashion, I think menswear is at times overlooked – undeservedly, as its designers boast such a wealth of talent. Whilst androgyny has been exhibited on the female body on the catwalk, there’s nothing like the unique male aesthetic.